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The term “Select Cut” gets used and abused quite a bit.
In this video, I’m using the results of a current Timber Stand Improvement (TSI) project to explain the difference between selecting the right trees and the wrong trees during a timber harvest.
This management strategy applies in a typical even-aged stand in the southern Missouri Ozarks and the broader central hardwoods region.
Making sure you are selecting the proper trees during a timber harvest or timber thinning is critical to providing long term forest health for you and the wildlife that use it.
It also takes some field experience to be most effective. A little bit of extra thought and investigation into where you should place your traps can be another piece of the puzzle that fits together for success.
I want to share some of my thoughts on selecting a trap site.
I use the hack and squirt method of woods thinning for specific reasons:
When re-sprouting of the tree is not necessary or not desired
control sprouting of trees for longer periods of open understory
control undesirable species in the stand.
shifting species composition in the stand
When the timber stand is at a stage where it is overstocked with smaller diameter stems and
Advance regeneration of desirable species is not needed for many years
felling the trees proves difficult because of high stocking rate.
When renovating a glade or woodland and felling the small trees would add too much fuel to the ground increasing fire risk or damage to remaining standing trees.
Here is the Hack & Squirt method of thinning in action!
Recently, we spent time renovating a high quality Open Woodland and Glade habitat. This particular site in Shannon County Missouri is unique because it is one of the most western locations of the rhyolite bedrock that extruded up through the earth to form the St Francois Mountains many years ago.
Igneous Glades
Rhyolite is an igneous form of granite that has an attractive purple tint in the eastern Ozarks. The rocks make for some very rugged terrain, making management activities a bit more of a challenge. Because the rock is so close to the surface on these sites, the soil is thin, and tree growth is fairly limited.
Trees take a long time to grow, and don’t grow very tall, but lots of native grasses, wildflowers, and legumes that were created to withstand these harsh environments thrive when given plenty of sunlight.
Prescribed Fire
Many of these sites which are valuable for wildlife are fewer and further between because of our need to control widespread wildfires that once shaped the vegetation of our landscape and kept open woodlands and glades fairly open.
Prescribed fire is a useful tool, but has become more and more of a challenge to use in today’s society, so other tactics that help reduce woody encroachment on these sites for just a little bit longer between wider fire intervals will help.
Turns out my picture is in the list of bing pictures when you do a search for ( Missouri timber stand improvement ). The picture is from my Missouri Department of Conservation days, and was used for the “Call before you cut” program, which connected landowners wishing to have a timber sale to a professional consulting forester.
Another interest outside of the conservation, forestry, and agriculture world, I have always had interest in machines, older machines particularly. I used to be primarily interested in old “go fast” machines, muscle cars from the 60’s and early 70’s, but then it branched out into old trucks and International Scouts and tractors, as my interests took me from the streets, more and more to the woods and the fields.
I say all this to give you some background to some of my lingo here. “Overhaulin” is taking what you’ve got, and freshening it up like new and “Resto-mod” has always been somewhat referred to as doing a restoration with modifications and upgrades to make it more usable or improved in some way to meet desires. A true “Restoration”, is taking something back to a specific point in time, like the day it was new.
Project Philosophy
In the natural world, a restoration is somewhat of a misnomer, because one cant always exactly go back to a specific time and place, or harder yet, the day it was new. Quite frankly, I don’t think its in the plans, nor possible to go back to the day it was new. We must move forward in a responsible way. Some folks like to talk about restoring something back to “pre-settlement” times, as if “pre-settlement” times weren’t always changing then, and I think its a little bit of a reach to say we know exactly what things were like in “pre-settlement” times. Are we talking 10 years, 100 years, 1000 years “pre-settlement” ?
My approach to things is often more like a “Resto-mod” where I like to make some assumptions about the way things may have been (and we can get some good ideas, from carefully studying the created order), and apply many of the benefits and processes of the natural world, and then apply those processes related to animals and plants in today’s natural world to make them more usable and beneficial to our situations today.
The native Americans of days gone by did the very same thing, studying the world, making observations, manipulating the landscape with fire, and other agricultural tools they had to manipulate the landscape to their benefit. I think we can learn some things there.
Project Action
So, I’m in the process of embarking into a project of converting a former fescue pasture with some small patches of johnson grass into a stand of native warm season grass and forbs for agriculture and wildlife purposes. There will also be places on this farm dedicated to bobwhite quail habitat, and pollinator habitat.
I want to share with you my step by step process here as I move along the way. I will warn you though, this process to be done correctly is going to take a year to get to the establishment phase, and then at least another year to really see the rewards of a job well done. But, as the old saying goes, “if its worth doing, its worth doing right”.
The first step was taken the other evening by completing a prescribed burn on the old fescue field to consume all of the old thatch. The black ground will now soak up all the solar energy form the sun and cause the fescue and other plants to make good use of the newly available nutrients and grow like gangbusters. This field will be the greenest field around in a few weeks. Of course, the fescue doesn’t know it, but we are just trying to fatten it up so we can spray it and get a good first kill on it in another month or so.
Bear with us, and stay tuned as we look forward to sharing the next step of this field Resto-mod with you!
Over the years in my career, I’ve met with a fair number of farmers. And when a farmer with many more years of experience than I do starts to talk about the way things used to be, and the way things are now, I pay close attention to what they say.
Quite often, the perplexity of why there are so many more weed problems than before, and pastures and hayfields becoming more susceptible to drought failure, becomes a discussion point. Their observations tell them that the fields don’t seem to be as alive as they once were. Discussions of the disappearance of dung beetles and other insect life that once helped quickly recycle nutrients, also eventually gets talked about.
What changed
Eventually, I get to ask the question. “What changed over the years. What did you start doing different”. Most answers revolved around a simple statement that nothing really changed, “Ive always had cows in these pastures, and we’ve always cut hay over here in these fields” and so on. But some observant farmers will note the details, that once they used to spread manure on the fields, and now we use commercial chemical fertilizers because its easier. After time to digest the thoughts, some farmers after thinking about our discussion of dung beetles, start to wonder out loud if maybe the frequent use of medical grade de-wormer may have something to do with their disappearance.
Observations
I’m not a soil scientist, but over the years, I’ve learned that sometimes the stuff that goes on in the background or under the surface can be a real big deal. Soil biology, and micro-biology play a significant role in how soil structure and soil chemistry create a healthy environment for plants. I’ve learned that healthy soil significantly increases water holding capacity, and even more so with a diverse native plant community. Healthy Soil makes a host of nutrients available to plants that otherwise would be locked up.
Among other things, important fungi in the soil create the glue that hold soil particles together and worms in the soil keep soil aerated and their casings keep soil pH in balance. Worms and many other beneficial insects eat and recycle soil residue and other organic compounds into quickly available nutrients. Healthy soil is important in agriculture. And if soil health is important in agriculture, then why wouldn’t it be important in managing food plots for wildlife?
Soil Management
I’m convinced soil management supported by a biologically friendly fertility program that considers ALL aspects of what makes soil HEALTHY and PRODUCTIVE (including micro-biology and micro-nutrients) is important in agriculture. After researching, studying and DOING it this way for a while on my native warm season grass hay fields, crops, and food plots, I’m convinced it makes a difference in the long run. I’ve seen beneficial results!
Where do I start?
Starting off with a soil test that tells the complete story of what may be lacking or over-abundant is a very good first step.This will help us understand where we are so we can know where we need to be going. We can come out and pull and collect soil samples in a systematic way that accurately represents your field. I map and measure your fields and GPS locate every soil sample location. I mix and combine the samples in each field and label them, package them and send them off to the lab. Soil tests I use will tell us:
This afternoon I took a walk in the cover-plot to see if I can find another shed or two. The deer have really been eating on the turnip bulbs and there seems to be a manure pile about every couple square feet out there. This isn’t surprising since lately I’ve been seeing around 12 to 15 deer of an evening. Since I will be growing a crop on this site come spring/summer, this got me thinking.
Nutrients from Whitetail Deer ?
I wonder, in addition to the nutrient value and organic matter I will be getting from the plants themselves this spring, how much nutrient value could I be looking at with all this deer manure?
I did a little research, did some inferring, and got out the calculator to do some basic math:
The USDA calculates something called an animal unit (AU) to determine the amount of forage an animal eats in a day. A cow is more or less the standard for the AU measurement assuming a 1000 lb. cow eating 26 lbs. of dry matter a day.
According to this bulletin a cow/AU produces about 59.1 lbs of manure per day which equates to 0.31 pounds of Nitrogen and 0.11 pounds of Phosphorus per day. Well, what does that equate into deer droppings? This is where a little bit of inferring happens.
According to Global Rangelands a whitetail deer has an AU of 0.17, and according to a USDA document from Texas, a whitetail deer AU is 0.13 assuming an average 100 lb. deer including adults and yearlings. The Texas source suggests 7 head of deer per animal unit. Lets use this number from Texas as a conservative approach to calculate numbers for deer in Missouri.
You got your calculator handy? Lets look at a few numbers:
Lets assume 2 animal units, (14) deer in the field at night (very conservative since I know more show up after dark).
Lets use the USDA nutrient numbers (assuming cow and deer values are close) and calculate nutrients for the month of January (31 days).
2 animal units = (0.31 lbs. N) X 2 = (0.62 lbs. N) X 31 days = 19.22 lbs. Nitrogen/ acre/ month
2 animal units = (0.11 lbs. P) X 2 = (0.22 lbs. P) X 31 days = 6.82 lbs. Phosphorus/ acre/ month
Soil Health
The benefit of claiming these kind of nutrients is the ability for manure to build organic matter in the soil, something commercial/chemical fertilizers cant do. Increased organic matter increases water holding capacity, which is a must in these Ozarks soils. This is a food plot now, but I will be growing a crop on this site, so soil health is important to me. Good soil health should be important to all agriculture producers, because its good for the environment and boosts your bottom line. If you’re growing a food plot, thinking soil health will ultimately give your food plots an edge, therefore giving you the edge come deer season.
Different trees have different environmental requirements or conditions they prefer, and when they have those conditions, they have a competitive advantage. This principle is not to be confused with another concept that different trees will tolerate certain environmental conditions better than others, and that tolerance gives them an advantage to grow and thrive.
If you plant a sugar maple and a bald cypress in your yard, generally they will both do fine, grow and produce a beautiful shade tree. If you took a sugar maple and a bald cypress and plant them in a swamp, the bald cypress will thrive, and the sugar maple will most likely wither away. The reason for this is the bald cypress is better designed to grow in the difficult soggy conditions of a swamp.
Shade Tolerance vs. Shade Intolerance
Some trees behave the same way with light availability. Oak trees are in a group of trees called “shade intolerant” trees, as opposed to trees that are “shade tolerant” such as maple, dogwood, etc. Because of this characteristic, oak trees being shade intolerant, an oak tree must have a lot of sunlight to reach the forest canopy from an acorn to a seedling to a sapling, to a big tall tree.
An oak must have enough sunlight at important stages in growth. If it doesn’t, it will either not grow at all or remain severely stunted until the end of its term. If a small seedling or sapling persists in the shade for many years, it seems to establish a habitually poor growth pattern that doesn’t change much.
Thankfully, oaks and some other species have been designed to stump sprout, which can be a tremendous advantage in gaining a new start when the timing is right. This design abandons the old established stunted growth pattern if the top happens to be damaged by fire, windfall, deer rub, chainsaw or any manner of disturbance, thereby giving the stump sprout a new start. If this happens when new available light is provided, the new stem has the big advantages of more light and an already well established root system.
So when I’m in the woods doing timber stand improvement (TSI), I attempt not only to cut out the poorly formed and suppressed trees, creating more light for the big trees to use, but also to cut the little stunted oak saplings that have been persisting in the understory for years, giving them a fresh, new start on life in the big woods.
I enjoy teaching. While doing TSI today and thinking through the process, I imagined a question someone might pose, and now I want to work through an answer that might make sense to an average forest landowner. I’ll attempt to explain what I do as a forester to help along a natural but fairly ordered forest system to produce in ways that meets that landowners objectives.
The question often asked: “Why are you cutting that young tree? If you leave it, won’t it grow big enough to harvest some day?”
So with this post I want to tackle some underlying assumptions held by many in order to answer this question. The false assumption often held is that small trees = young trees. Small trees CAN be young trees, but not ALL small trees are young trees.
All trees have a lifespan, and the objective for a landowner that wants to grow and harvest the most good quality trees during a managed timber sale, is to get as many of his trees as big as possible within that lifespan. The art and science of forestry is to help the best trees gain access and maintain access to sunlight within a limited growing space.
So, today, I DID cut down that smaller tree not too far from the bigger tree, and hopefully my on the fly investigative reporting will shed some light on why. I didn’t have anything to measure with, but I did have a smartphone and an ashtray with a few gate keys and four or five .22 long rifle rounds. A quick google search revealed what I suspected. A .22 long rifle bullet is one inch long, and a perfect scale object. Off we go down the hill to take some pictures.